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TEM Lab: India – International Center for Research on Women

Welcome

Thank you for visiting our India TEM Lab blog! On these pages, we will keep you updated on our progress as we dive into our project: Prevention of Gender-Based Violence Among Adolescent Girls:  Harnessing collective action to address gender-based violence and promote social and economic development in a low-income community of Mumbai, India. We will be working with the International Center for Research on Women (ICRW) and other strategic partners in the city’s M-Ward, focusing on the community of Shivaji Nagar. Our goal: to help build a collective action network allows organizations working in this community to have a deeper and more sustainable impact. In the end, we hope to do our part in helping to empower women and girls by creating opportunities and ending violence. Please check back soon for updates. See you soon!

-Amanda Roberson, Stephanie Snyder and Emily Winans

Goodbye Mumbai: Final Reflections on our TEM Lab Experience

Written on April 22nd, 2012

Amanda_Roberson_WebBy Amanda Roberson, MBA 2012

As we pack our bags, take our final rickshaw rides and say goodbye to new friends, I reflect on our five-weeks in Mumbai. Coming to India for the first time to live and work has been intense, and time will give me a better perspective on what this TEM Lab experience has been all about. For now, highlights from our time here stick out in my mind, and I am thankful for all of the people we have met, challenges we have encountered, and lessons we have learned.

Indian dressThe first two weeks of our project now seem far away. During this phase, we worked closely with our client Lyric Thompson, ICRW Special Assistant to the President, who traveled to Mumbai to help lay the foundation for us to complete our work. We had many conversations about ICRW’s vision for the project we were hired to help them create, a collective action initiative to address the unmet needs of adolescent girls in Mumbai’s M-Ward East slum communities. Working with Lyric and ICRW Senior Technical Specialist Madhumita Das, we began to wrap our heads around the ambitious goal of forming a collective action group. In a nutshell, ICRW wants to bring together multiple entities working on adolescent issues in M-Ward East to work in partnership. The basic premise behind collective action is that combining efforts creates synergies and knowledge transfer, allowing the groups involved to have a greater impact than they could have on their own.
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Expecting the Unexpected

Written on April 20th, 2012

Stephanie_Snyder_SmBy Stephanie Snyder, MBA 2012

Our biggest, most important day for our project with ICRW was supposed to include a meeting with representatives from eight NGOs and the municipal government of Mumbai.  At the end of our fourth week, we had met with each of the eight organizations individually, and we were anxious about how this group meeting would go.  We knew that much of the future success of the project for ICRW was contingent on this first meeting with potential partners.  In an attempt to expect the unexpected, we worked tirelessly to plan for as many alternatives as we could imagine, creating a detailed agenda and discussing it with ICRW staff beforehand, providing talking points to ensure everyone was ready to answer all potential questions, and developing additional material to present if the discussion ran short.  What we didn’t anticipate and had no idea we should consider was that on the day of our big meeting on which we had pinned so much of our hope for the future of the initiative, the rickshaws in the city of Mumbai would strike.

rickshawThe rickshaw drivers were striking for an increase in the minimum fare which was set at 12 rupees or 23 US cents.  Our ride to work normally costs around 30 rupees or 58 US cents.  We learned of the strike the week before our meeting but had no idea if it would affect the rickshaws in Chembur, our area of Mumbai.  However, when the staff at ICRW began to remark on the strike on the Friday before our Monday meeting, we feared that we may be in trouble.  How would we reach the office?  We were used to taking rickshaws and the SOS alert warned that private cars and taxis would be overwhelmed with demand.  We had yet to attempt to catch an overcrowded bus and certainly did not want to try it on our most important day in Mumbai.  Fortunately, on Sunday, after being denied by two taxi services, an ICRW employee came to our rescue and promised to arrive promptly at 9:00 am to pick us up the following morning.  We were relieved but worried about whether any of the representatives from the NGOs would come to the meeting.
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The Great Goa Getaway

Written on April 14th, 2012

Emily_Winans_4-11_sm By Emily Winans, MBA 2012

After three busy weeks in Mumbai, we were eager to escape to Goa, which is about one hour south of Mumbai by plane.  Our journey from the airport to our hotel felt more like a game of chicken than a ride in a taxi.  As the car dashed in and out of oncoming traffic, the sun began to set.  On the side of the road we could see many people walking in dressy western style clothing presumably on their way to mass for Good Friday.   Five hundred years of Portuguese colonization greatly influenced the area, most notably in the strong Catholic convictions of many local residents.  In Mumbai, I have grown accustomed to seeing Ganesha, a Hindu god, rest on the dashboards of many vehicles.  In Goa, our driver opted for the Virgin Mary.

DSCN3242After an hour, we reached our hotel feeling drained and a little nauseous from the ride.  Settling into our room, we came upon several discoveries including a toilet that flushed by turning a knob that controlled the main water flow and an air conditioner that worked all day except from 8-10 p.m.  We finished the evening by enjoying some local seafood at a nearby restaurant and checking out the eclectic mix of tourists and locals.

Our first day was designated as our day at the beach and we quickly noticed the many differences from typical American beaches.  First, there were the cows (yes, cows) walking around on the beach and napping in the shade.  Along with the cows were many stray dogs strolling in the sand and even swimming in the ocean.   We hoped our Western beach attire would be more of the norm in such a beach town, but unfortunately we still did not quite fit in.

IMG_4723Our second day was dedicated to sightseeing.  Our first stop was the largest Cathedral in Asia located in Old Goa, where the Portuguese originally established a community.  From there we visited a very large Hindu temple and finally landed at a spice plantation where we enjoyed a tour that was cooled by the shade of spice trees.  Like most days in India thus far, our senses were overloaded.  We enjoyed the aroma of cashew fruit, vanilla pods, a cinnamon tree, and nutmeg.  Our tour guide unburied the bright yellow roots of turmeric and the tour ended with a man begrudgingly scaling a palm tree using only his hands, feet, and some rope.  Our tour guide referred to him as the modern day Tarzan.

TEM 094We were jolted back to the fast pace of Mumbai when we left our hotel at 4:45 a.m. on Monday.  After what seemed to be the fastest car ride yet, our driver told us to “hurry and get out.” We were rather surprised at his response until we uncovered that he had understood our 6:50 flight as “six-fifteen” and did not want us to be late.  Nonetheless, after a long relaxing weekend, we landed in Mumbai comforted by the sights and sounds of the city to which we have learned to call home.

When in Doubt, Bobble

Written on April 11th, 2012

Amanda_Roberson_Web

By Amanda Roberson, MBA Candidate 2012

Perhaps the most perplexing cultural signal for Westerners in India to decode is the head bobble. Rather than having two distinct motions for yes and no, Indians use one catch-all head motion that involves wobbling the head from side to side like one of those toys sold on the street and sometimes seen in taxi cabs.

Four weeks in Mumbai have allowed me to observe the intricacies of the bobble and try to demystify it. I have even attempted the bobble myself, although the unfamiliar motion of tipping my head from side to side makes my brain feel like it is rattling against my skull. When practicing the bobble back at Thunderbird, my friend Kinjal told me it hurts because I’m trying too hard. As with many things in India, trying too hard will get you nowhere but frustrated and with a headache.

bobble dice1The beauty of the bobble is that it is perfect for any occasion. At times, it can mean yes, and at others it means no. It can also be a sign of politeness to say “hello,” “goodbye” or “ok, we’re finished talking now.” I surveyed my Indian colleagues at ICRW to ask them what the bobble means. Their answers included:

  • “What comes next, we’ll see afterwards”
  • “I don’t understand”
  • “I’m listening intently”
  • “Anything at all”
  • “I agree” and
  • “50/50 yes and no” (my personal favorite)

All of this bobbling can make a U.S. head spin. What do you mean yes AND no, it has to be yes OR no! Our deductive, rational system means that we find comfort in seeing things in black and white. India is one big shade of grey, and the bobble captures that perfectly. Yes can mean no, the present is really the future and the only thing certain is usually uncertainty. The bobble says it all.

Our team has dealt with a fair share of uncertainty and confusion while working and living in India. In the process, I have begun to appreciate the bobble. In this great machine of a city, clarity is not always possible and ambiguity is accepted. You may not always understand, but just keep moving forward. And when in doubt, bobble.

Camels, Cricket and Water Sports: Just Another Day of Client Engagement

Written on April 8th, 2012

Amanda_Roberson_Web By Amanda Roberson, MBA 2012

“You girls are working too hard!” We have heard this disapproving observation from our Indian friends at the International Center for Research on Women (ICRW) many times during our first two weeks here. In the spirit of inclusion and in an effort to tear us away from our work, they invited us to join them for a day at the beach on Wednesday.

The office-wide beach trip was a celebration of a milestone in a major project called Research & Intervention in Sexual Health: Theory to Action (RISHTA). The staff had reached their goal of recruiting almost 1,200 women from the slum community of Shivaji Nagar to participate in this study – not an easy feat considering women’s limited freedoms and taboos around their reproductive health. A cause for celebration indeed! And so to the beach we went. IMG_4571

We all climbed on board a small bus, beach bags and cricket bats in hand. The mood quickly turned jovial as the bus divided into teams and began playing a Bollywood song game. One person starts off a song and his team members quickly join in. As each song ends, the opposing team must start a new song that begins with the first letter of the last word of the previous song. Our friends had no trouble keeping this game going for almost an hour, unsurprising considering how many Bollywood movies are produced every year and how much Indians enjoy them.
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A Trip into the Heart of Shivaji Nagar

Written on April 4th, 2012

Stephanie_Snyder_Sm By Stephanie Snyder, MBA 2012

Our project here in Mumbai for the International Center for Research on Women to form a collective action group requires us to visit nonprofit organizations operating within Shivaji Nagar, a poor urban community with some of the worst living conditions in the city.  At the beginning of our second week here in India, we had not yet had an opportunity to see the community we were working to improve.  We were all very excited when we finally took that first rickshaw ride into the community.

trash mountainEmily and I went with Rajendra and Ajit, two very knowledgeable ICRW staff members, to our first meeting with a small, local nonprofit called Niramaya which focuses on providing healthcare to the members of Shivaji Nagar.  On our way to Niramaya we drove by the infamous dumping ground, a literal mountain of garbage which so many within the community rely on for their livelihoods.  The rickshaw finally stopped in front of a blue storefront shutter.  We entered through a small door, kept open to allow light into the room revealing posters of frightening-looking ailments displayed around the room.  Emily, Rajendra, and I sat along a bench on one side of the small room facing our host, the new doctor in charge of NiramayaNiramaya for only two months.  I watched curiously as Rajendra in pressed khakis and button down shirt pulled up his legs and folded them beneath him on the bench, sitting “Indian” style.  I felt a tad bit ridiculous as I pulled out my laptop to take notes as we attempted to solicit the information we needed to complete our project from the doctor.  He spoke English but seemed only to understand Rajendra’s English.  Our accent must have been too “American.” Rajendra had urged us to speak slowly, but for a girl told most of her life that she speaks with a slow southern draw, it was very difficult to reverse the tendency to try to speak faster.
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The Adventures of Three Americans in a Rickshaw

Written on April 2nd, 2012

Emily_Winans_4-11_smBy Emily Winans, MBA Candidate 2012

These three videos document our first trip returning home from the office without the help of a native Hindi speaker. The first clip demonstrates the challenge of communication with the driver, the second includes the scenery of the quiet side street we live on, and the third shows our successful arrival.

Six Sigma, Eat Your Heart Out: Mumbai’s Tiffin Wallahs Were Efficient Before Efficiency Was Cool

Written on March 31st, 2012

Amanda_Roberson_WebBy Amanda Roberson, MBA Candidate, 2012

How do you know it’s lunchtime at the Mumbai office of the International Center for Research on Women (ICRW)? The spicy aroma of Indian food drifts into our workspace. Staff set aside their work and make their way to the common area. We all convene around a glass coffee table, and small metal containers holding a variety of delectable Indian dishes appear. These containers, or tiffins, are more than just a smarter version of Tupperware – they transport fuel for Mumbai’s millions of workers through a system so flawless it’s caught the attention of Six Sigma fanatics.

Thunderbird 234Our new friends and ICRW lunch mates explained the tiffin wallah food delivery system to us as we commenced the daily ritual of spooning paneer, masala, dal, and cauliflower onto our plates and pinching them our mouth with finger scoops made of naan (Indian flatbread).

Here’s how it works: most Indians have a maid or spouse at home who prepares their lunch in the morning. This cook then packs the food into tiffins (identical round metal containers) that stack neatly to form a tower of spicy deliciousness. A tiffin wallah (delivery person) then picks them up, loads them onto his bicycle or person and weaves his way through busy Mumbai traffic to a central station where they are sorted and routed to the office of the hungry worker who will be their end consumer.
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First Impressions of India

Written on March 29th, 2012

Amanda_Roberson_WebBy Amanda Roberson, MBA Candidate, 2012

Our indoctrination into this beautifully intense country was a shopping expedition to equip our apartment. Although our living quarters are extremely comfortable and spacious, they lacked a few necessities such as shower curtains, pillows and kitchen utensils. We headed out to purchase a few of these items under the guidance of Chandra Viswanathan,our first new friend in India.

Chandra is the mother of our Tbird classmate Ajay, who found us this great apartment conveniently located close to our client site (and one floor upstairs from his parents – a huge plus!) After staying up late to receive us with delicious tea and snacks when we arrived from the airport, she then prepared us an Indian breakfast the next morning and guided us on the first leg of our shopping expedition, generous enough to give up her one free day from her busy work as a research pathologist.

chandra 6Chandra led us through a couple of packed supermarkets that loaded our senses along with our shopping carts. Navigating through tight aisles packed with people and food, we began to appreciate the diversity of people and flavors. Women dressed in everything from burqas to colorful kurtis to jeans. Spices we had never heard of and unrecognizable packaged food. India is sure to be a daily education as we soak in all of these new images and learn the context behind them.

Chandra helped us avoid blunders at every step. I picked up a package of what seemed to be the same tasty cracker bread she had served us the night before and showed it to her to make sure. No, she informed me, in fact this is some sort of raw dough. Another important tip from our friend:  the mosquito coils that should repel some of these omnipresent pests from our sleeping bodies.


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