Salta’s Brush with Stardom: Restaurateur Gaston Acurio Inspires Fellow Entrepreneurs
Sunday, July 24th, 2011
By Amanda Roberson
MBA Candidate, 2012
It started out as a regular Saturday. In need of some downtime and hungry for some of Peru’s world-class seafood, four of us Salta interns headed to La Mar Cebichería. One of Lima’s top restaurants, La Mar is a stallion in the culinary stable of Gaston Acurio, the chef responsible for putting Peru on the global food map. Little did we know we would be treated to more than just some delicious cebiche when Gaston showed up at La Mar to watch Peru battle Venezuela for third place in the Americas Cup soccer tournament.
Not ones to pass up an opportunity, we took the liberty of introducing ourselves. Acurio was interested in hearing more about Proyecto Salta, and he invited us to his table and treated us to pisco cocktails after Peru defeated Venezuela 4-1.
Acurio is not only a natural chef; he is a natural social entrepreneur and an inspiration to the women we work with through Proyecto Salta. Just as he works wonders in the kitchen by calling upon Peruvian lime, seafood and chiles to reach new heights, he also challenges the country’s food industry to be pioneers of social and environmental responsibility. At his cooking school, Instituto Cocina Superior Tenológico Nuevo Pachacútec, he and his staff offer training for aspiring chefs from low-income areas. On his Facebook page (which has almost 420,000 fans), he shares everything from the concoction he whipped up for lunch to his musings that chefs are like soldiers. He recently posted:
”We cooks fight our battles always in the land of the kitchen and in everything that it positively influences: agriculture, fishing, nutrition, the environment, fair supply chains, exports, national identity, education, culture, innovation, added value, and the promotion of our work in the world. But from the kitchen. Political offices are for the politicians. Chefs are the soldiers.”
After training at Cordon Bleu in Paris, where Acurio met his German wife Astrid, the pair opened Astrid y Gaston in Lima in 1994 (http://www.astridygaston.com/web/intro.php). Today, the Astrid y Gaston concept has been replicated in Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela, Spain, Mexico and Argentina. Understanding the value of creating a brand, Acurio went on to develop other Peruvian food concepts, each with a different twist. At La Mar, he focuses on cebiche (seafood cooked in fresh lime juice), while his Panchita restaurant showcases the traditional Peruvian kebob, or anticucho. A sandwich shop, juice bar and bakery are among the other brands in Acurio’s portfolio.
As we chatted with Peru’s entrepreneur in chief, he brought up a few of the issues on his mind: how to make sure fishermen get a fair price for their catch, the need for organic farmers markets in Peru and how to train restaurant owners in the best business practices. With his trademark curls and relaxed demeanor, Acurio hasn’t let international fame go to his head. Rather, he remains down to earth as he shoulders the responsibility and opportunity that come along with leading Peru’s food revolution. As he continues to dream up new flavors, he envisions his country achieving economic growth along with social and environmental justice.
The more we chatted with him, we realized that Acurio’s food, although memorable, isn’t what makes him unique. It is his desire to inspire his fellow entrepreneurs and live as proof that talent, natural ingredients and sound business practices are the recipe for positive change.
Ranked #1 in the World

Dina Alvaro, in her early 60s, lives with her family in Manchay and works as an artist, although she would never identify herself as one. During our first visit, she opened up a cabinet in her kitchen and pulled out item after item that she had made by hand: lace tablecloths, paintings on velvet, wool baby blankets, nativity scenes, crochets pillow cases, knit purses and more. She loves to keep her talented hands busy, in fact she feels that she has to.
most have sales between 300-1,000 dollars per month. The majority of the entrepreneurs we work with are located in the lower income zones of Lima like San Juan de Lurigancho or Manchay, but I also work with an entrepreneur that lives three blocks away from my apartment in the heart of Miraflores, one of the most popular high income and tourist districts in Lima.
challenges as the smaller and simpler micro-businesses, such as the lack of an accounting system and formal business training .
Although I had a great deal I could tell them about China from my recent module abroad in Beijing, I had not anticipated applying my Asia business environment knowledge with the micro-entrepreneurs during the Proyecto Salta internship!
Both businesses had the goal of expanding to new markets and increasing sales. They had the capacity but needed help with planning and marketing. Before I could help them make expansion plans, they needed help getting organized. I told them that the last thing they want is to grow their business more “desorganizada”.
By Marcela Cubas Ramacciotti
capital pudimos corroborar, tal y como los índices socio- económicos indican, que el Perú es uno de los países con niveles de educación más bajos en Latinoamérica y el Mundo.
Gracias a Proyecto Salta hemos aprendido sobre las necesidades de las mujeres limeñas y nos sentimos privilegiados de poder participar en un programa que nos permite conocer “a priori” la realidad de la población Peruana.