By Amanda Roberson
MBA Candidate, 2012
It started out as a regular Saturday. In need of some downtime and hungry for some of Peru’s world-class seafood, four of us Salta interns headed to La Mar Cebichería. One of Lima’s top restaurants, La Mar is a stallion in the culinary stable of Gaston Acurio, the chef responsible for putting Peru on the global food map. Little did we know we would be treated to more than just some delicious cebiche when Gaston showed up at La Mar to watch Peru battle Venezuela for third place in the Americas Cup soccer tournament.
Not ones to pass up an opportunity, we took the liberty of introducing ourselves. Acurio was interested in hearing more about Proyecto Salta, and he invited us to his table and treated us to pisco cocktails after Peru defeated Venezuela 4-1.
Acurio is not only a natural chef; he is a natural social entrepreneur and an inspiration to the women we work with through Proyecto Salta. Just as he works wonders in the kitchen by calling upon Peruvian lime, seafood and chiles to reach new heights, he also challenges the country’s food industry to be pioneers of social and environmental responsibility. At his cooking school, Instituto Cocina Superior Tenológico Nuevo Pachacútec, he and his staff offer training for aspiring chefs from low-income areas. On his Facebook page (which has almost 420,000 fans), he shares everything from the concoction he whipped up for lunch to his musings that chefs are like soldiers. He recently posted:
”We cooks fight our battles always in the land of the kitchen and in everything that it positively influences: agriculture, fishing, nutrition, the environment, fair supply chains, exports, national identity, education, culture, innovation, added value, and the promotion of our work in the world. But from the kitchen. Political offices are for the politicians. Chefs are the soldiers.”
After training at Cordon Bleu in Paris, where Acurio met his German wife Astrid, the pair opened Astrid y Gaston in Lima in 1994 (http://www.astridygaston.com/web/intro.php). Today, the Astrid y Gaston concept has been replicated in Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela, Spain, Mexico and Argentina. Understanding the value of creating a brand, Acurio went on to develop other Peruvian food concepts, each with a different twist. At La Mar, he focuses on cebiche (seafood cooked in fresh lime juice), while his Panchita restaurant showcases the traditional Peruvian kebob, or anticucho. A sandwich shop, juice bar and bakery are among the other brands in Acurio’s portfolio.
As we chatted with Peru’s entrepreneur in chief, he brought up a few of the issues on his mind: how to make sure fishermen get a fair price for their catch, the need for organic farmers markets in Peru and how to train restaurant owners in the best business practices. With his trademark curls and relaxed demeanor, Acurio hasn’t let international fame go to his head. Rather, he remains down to earth as he shoulders the responsibility and opportunity that come along with leading Peru’s food revolution. As he continues to dream up new flavors, he envisions his country achieving economic growth along with social and environmental justice.
The more we chatted with him, we realized that Acurio’s food, although memorable, isn’t what makes him unique. It is his desire to inspire his fellow entrepreneurs and live as proof that talent, natural ingredients and sound business practices are the recipe for positive change.